Bangkok “Night Market” Ramen

Ramen noodles originated in China, Japan popularized them, and street vendors in Thailand’s bustling city of Bangkok also sell them. Fresh ramen noodles are becoming more available in western markets but they’re still not easy to find, so I use of the dried ramen noodles here. These blocks of noodles are typically fried as part of the drying process and this makes them cook “instantly.” The ramen dishes found late at night on the streets of Bangkok are offered with a choice of various meats or seafood.

Serves 4
 Preparation time: 10 mins
 Cooking time: 10 mins

9 cups (2 liters) water

3 packages of instant ramen noodles (about 2 oz/60 g per package)

1 tablespoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 tablespoons minced coriander stems (cilantro stems)

¼ cup (20 g) chopped green onions (scallions)

2 tablespoons chicken, pork or vegetable stock/broth

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1–2 tablespoons Sriracha Chili Sauce (page 35)

2 tablespoons oil

½ lb (250 g) chicken, beef or pork, thinly sliced

2 cups (120 g) Asian greens (water spinach, choy sum, or bok choy), sliced into small pieces

¼ cup (40 g) shredded or matchstick strip carrots

¹⁄8 teaspoon ground white pepper

¼ cup (7 g) Thai basil leaves

1 Boil the water in a medium saucepan, add the ramen noodles (save the seasoning packets for another use). Stir well and cook for 2 minutes, drain, rinse with water until cool, drain very well and set aside.

2 Take a moment to get ready to stir-fry. Combine the garlic, ginger, coriander stems, and green onions. In a separate small bowl, whisk the stock/ broth, soy sauce, oyster sauce, and Sriracha Chili Sauce together.

3 Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat. Swirl then oil in the skillet to coat the entire surface, and keep heating the skillet until it is very hot and the oil begins to smoke.

4 Stir in the garlic mixture and cook until aromatic, about 15 seconds. Stir in the meat and stir-fry until about half cooked.

5 Mix in the noodles and stir-fry, only stirring occasionally so the noodles brown in some parts (sometimes I drizzle a bit of oil to facilitate this). Since the noodles are already cooked you only need to stir-fry for a minute or two. Mix in the greens and carrots.

6 Pour in the sauce mixture and cook until you are able to mix all the ingredients evenly. Stir in the basil leaves until just wilted. Taste and adjust seasoning with soy sauce, Sriracha Chili Sauce and a touch of sugar if needed.

Cinnamon-scented Beef Noodle Soup

Each trip I take down Thailand’s Chao Praya River, I am compelled to try to locate Thai boat noodles, like aromatic sirens they call out to me with their intoxicating fragrance. This simplified version uses a premade stock to save hours of simmering meaty bones. A quick infusion of caramelized onions and sweet spices stirs up memories of the floating markets with the sun rising behind the thousands of Thai temples. Like most cooks in Asia, I use all of the fresh coriander (cilantro) by using the stems in the broth and using the leaves for the garnish.

Makes 4 full meal noodle bowls or 6 servings as part of multi-course meal
 Preparation time: 10 mins
 Cooking time: 20 mins

9 cups (2 liters) water

½ lb (250 g) dried flat rice noodles (about ¼ inch/6 mm wide), soaked in water for 30 mins

½ lb (250 g) beef (flank, strip loin, round or sirloin), thinly sliced so it will cook

3 cups (180 g) Asian greens (water spinach, choy sum, or bok choy), sliced into small pieces

1 cup (80 g) green onions (scallions), sliced into lengths

¼ cup (10 g) coriander leaves (cilantro)

1 tablespoon Fried Garlic (page 37)

1 lime, cut into wedges

SCENTED BROTH

1 tablespoon oil

2 cups (270 g) onions, sliced

6 pieces star anise

2 sticks cinnamon, about 3 inch (7.5 cm) long

2 stalks lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, smashed

2 tablespoons chili paste in soya bean oil (nahm prik pow)

9 cups (2 liters) store-bought or homemade beef stock/broth

¼ cup (15 g) roughly chopped coriander stems (cilantro stems)

1 Prepare the Scented Broth by heating the oil in a large saucepan over high heat, add the onions, star anise, cinnamon, and lemongrass. Cook, stirring occasionally until the onions turn golden brown, about 3–5 minutes. Add the chili paste, stock/broth, and coriander stems, bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain through a wire mesh strainer. Pour the strained broth back into the pot, taste and adjust the seasoning with salt. Keep hot over a low heat.

2 Boil the water over high heat, cook the rice noodles until cooked through (about 1-2 minutes), drain and divide evenly among large serving bowls. Divide the beef among the bowls on one side of noodles.

3 Stir the greens and green onions into the Scented Broth and cook for 30 seconds. Ladle the hot broth over the beef to cook it as you fill the bowls. Sprinkle with coriander leaves and Fried Garlic. Serve with lime wedges and provide everyone with a large spoon and chopsticks.